Reading a Seasonal Brunch Menu Through the Year
Why what you order in March should look nothing like what you order in October.
Brunch menus shift with the seasons more than dinner menus do, because brunch leans heavily on produce — fruit, vegetables, herbs — and a kitchen with a real seasonal program will look like a different restaurant in February than it did in August. Knowing how to read those shifts means you order the dish the kitchen is most excited to serve, every time. In late winter, the menu leans dense and warming. Citrus is at its peak — blood oranges, mandarins, grapefruit — so any salad or sauce featuring those is at its best in February.
Root vegetables anchor the savory menu. Hashes are heavier, eggs are richer, and pancakes lean toward warming spices: cardamom, cinnamon, nutmeg. In spring, the menu turns. Asparagus, peas, fava beans, and ramps appear, and any kitchen with a vegetable program will start putting them on plates.
Egg dishes get lighter; the hollandaise gets a fresh herb folded in; the pancakes pivot from spiced to bright, with strawberries and rhubarb. Order anything green in April and May. In summer, the menu is loudest. Tomatoes, corn, stone fruit, and basil dominate.
The sandwich page wakes up. The bowl page wakes up. Cold dishes — gazpacho, melon and prosciutto, peach toast — show up alongside the eggs. This is the season for the patio, and the kitchen knows it.
In fall, the menu pivots again. Apples, pears, squash, and the year's first heirloom potatoes arrive. Pumpkin pancakes are the cliché, but a thoughtful kitchen will give you something more interesting: a roasted squash hash, a pear-and-blue-cheese frittata, a baked apple with crème fraîche. The season is short and the menu reflects it — order anything autumnal in October because it'll be off the menu by mid-November.
The simple rule is to read the menu top to bottom looking for what's new since the last time you visited. Those are the dishes the cooks are excited about, and they are almost always the right answer to the morning.
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